Beware of carpet cleaners up-selling.

Their job is to pressure you to purchase deodorizers or sanitizers.  You’ve hired the local or national “steamer” carpet cleaner to “clean” your carpeting.  He finished cleaning the carpeting and immediately begins to softly (heavily) pressure you about the importance of deodorizers and sanitizers with an “extra charge” of course.  Sadly, the results of the just cleaned carpeting barely meet your expectations, and now;  the carpeting is still wet, although it does “look” somewhat better, but not quite excellent, some of the spots and stains weren’t removed, but they told you the stains are permanent (all stains can be fixed), and now they’re pressuring you to buy add-on services.

Adding sanitizers post-cleaning implies they didn’t do their job correctly.

Hmmm?  Ever wonder why you need a deodorizer or sanitizer if they had removed the source of the odor initially?  Odors cannot exist where there is no source for such odor (you can’t smell onions where no onions exist).  Why do you require a sanitizer if they just cleaned your carpeting?  Doesn’t that imply that the carpet “cleaning” service they just performed has left your carpeting in an unsanitary condition?

Carpet cleaners make their cash by selling something they should have addressed.

The profit center for most carpet cleaners is the “add-on” up charge at the end of the service (that’s where the carpet cleaning person earns their money).  Most consumers of carpet cleaning contractors make their choice based upon telephone price, unaware that the carpet cleaner will pressure them to purchase deodorizers and sanitizers which by definition implies that their service was poor and did not address the purpose of the cleaning event.   The by-product of applying post-cleaning deodorizers or sanitizers is having additional chemicals applied on top of supposedly “clean” carpeting.  Would you ever lay on your floor if it was full of sanitizers which are designed to kill live organisms (you’re a live organism)?  The majority of carpet cleaning technicians are paid via commission, therefore, they earn their pay through their “up-sells”.  Discreetly ask the carpet cleaning technician if they’re paid on commission, often times they’ll confirm it.  There is a solution. How would you enjoy a much higher quality cleaning service that removes the source of the offending issue while leaving the carpeting nearly completely dry and you’ll never be pressured to buy anything?

The correct procedures to remove spots and stains from carpeting will shock and amaze you (You can do a better job than most of the pros).

The only equipment required is:

• tablespoon for removing solids (vomit, thick solids, etc..)
• paper towels or white cotton cloths
• 1 qt spray bottle with atomizing spray head filled with lukewarm water
• 1 qt spray bottle filled with warm water and 1 or 2 drops of dish cleaning detergent
• 1 wet/dry vacuum with a flat extraction head tool for the best water removal
• 1 qt spray bottle filled with peroxide (for older stain removal only)

How you treat a spot or stain is dependent upon many factors. Read the following very carefully and you can confidently remove spots and stains better than any so-called professional carpet cleaner, other than yours truly of course. Unfortunately, you cannot treat all types of spots and all types of carpeting with the same methods. All spots and stains are time sensitive, the sooner you can address them, the more likely you will be successful. Spots are not typically changes in color, but stains are. The following steps assume that you are addressing the spots immediately as they occur. Older spots can become permanent stains if they are left untreated, or can be made worse if they are not treated correctly.

There are 3 keys to removing spots from carpeting:

1. Loosen the spot with the proper chemistry.
2. Suspend and dilute the loosened spot with plenty of water
3. Extract with vacuum until all of the spot and water are removed and no residue is left within the carpeting.
• Never add any soaps, detergents, water, or any other chemicals or water to any spot or stain which cannot be removed completely with extraction. Do not apply any solutions by pouring, you should only apply cleaning agents in the smallest quantities necessary, usually with a fine mist sprayer to “loosen” the soil for suspension and dilution prior to extraction. Blotting is NOT a substitute for rinsing and extracting. There is NO such thing as a spot or stain remover. By definition, the action of adding a chemical to a spot or stain, is an act of addition and, therefore, not an act of removal. Spot removers employ misleading and false terms. Adding a chemical to a spot is by definition a spot “adder” and not a spot “remover”.
• Identify the material composition of the carpeting. The 4 main types of carpeting are:
  Nylon, Wool, Polyester, and Polypropylene (olefin) and each is cleaned differently. It is rare to find wool in wall to wall installations, however, many people now have wool area rugs, therefore, we are including wool here. See our instructions below for more information or visit our website to learn how to easily identify the type of carpeting you have in your home. If you are not aware of the material composition of your carpeting, please contact us. We can help you with the identification.
• After you have identified the material composition of your carpeting, follow the following steps carefully.
1. Retrieve the list of cleaning equipment as described
2. Scrape or vacuum (do not use a beater bar vacuum cleaner) to remove the excess from any solids that are present. If the spot is from any dry or liquid source such as soda or coffee, then extract as much as possible with the wet dry vacuum before applying any cleaning solutions.
3. Spray the soapy solution onto the spot while simultaneously extracting with the vacuum suction.
4. Spray the soapy solution onto the oily spots while simultaneously vacuuming the water and the offending spot from the carpeting.
5. Apply the rinse water and extract with the vacuum until all of the spot and detergents have been removed.

Nylon and wool carpeting stain (add color) and bleach (color loss) easily, and can hold most dirt and spots with a stronger “grip” than the plastic fibers of polyester (PET), and polypropylene (PP) because they are hydrophilic (water absorbing). Conversely, the plastic fibers (pet, and pp) which are not hydrophilic, cannot absorb water, because the plastics (PET, PP) are lipophilic, which means they absorb oils, but do not absorb water-borne substances. The requirements necessary to treat similar stains within the 4 main types of carpeting is dictated by whether those fibers accept new colors or color changes. Generally, the “plastics” cannot accept new colors or experience immediate color loss. Wool and most natural materials such as: silk, rayon and cotton rugs are a special case, and the cleaning tips should not be used for those materials. Wool is the hair from an animal, more accurately a sheep’s hair, which means, it is a protein-derived substance and not a synthetic fiber such as those made mostly from petrochemicals (oil based) such as nylon, polyester, and polypropylene.

1. The goal is: dilution, water suspension, and removal of as much or all of the unwanted matter as thoroughly and quickly as possible. Over-wetting of the carpeting with too much water is perhaps the most common mistake, and anxious homeowners who have saturated and scrubbed the spots with all of the latest and at times old-fashioned techniques running a close second.
2. Nylon and wool carpeting are generally unaffected by oil based substances (lipo-phobic literally means oil fearing, but here we mean unaffected by oil), while polyester and polypropylene are more affected by oil because they are lipo-philic (oil loving) materials. Nylon and wool are generally easily stained by water-based liquids, especially acidic or low pH water-based liquids such as, sodas, wine, and even energy drinks, as well as, urine although there is a different response required to treat urine which we will address. Polyester and olefin are nearly impossible to stain with any type of water-borne liquids including urine. There are some exceptions, but these rules generally apply in the majority of situations.
3. Water-borne spots and stains are easier to remove from polyester (PET), which is the plastic used to produce things like the water bottles we drink from (PET), and polypropylene (PP) (olefin), which is the plastic used to produce pharmaceutical prescription vials, large opaque storage containers, tupperware®™, and many of the opaque and translucent food storage containers we use for holding meal leftovers, in addition to many, many other useful things as well. For example, you can fill recyclable water bottles made from PET and PP with: wine, bleach, coffee, colored liquids, or even urine if you’d like, and easily rinse all of them without a trace. However, you cannot fill either of these containers with any oil or petroleum based substances for long periods. These plastics love oil.

There are two frequent questions that prospective clients have asked us in regards to odor related issues on carpeting. The first question is, “Do deodorizers work?”. This questions is presented to us when another carpet cleaning company has made the claim that they are able to remove odor from carpeting with the use of a deodorizer (at an additional charge). The quick and direct answer to this question is no, they do not work. The second question that immediately follows is, “How do I get rid of bad odors from carpeting?”. If deodorizers are not the answer, what is?

Do Deodorizers work?

In answer to the first question, unfortunately, most deodorizers are simply temporary odor masking chemicals. Odors such as dog or cat urine, did not magically appear. The act of spraying or applying an over the counter “deodorizer” onto smelly problems does not remove the source, rather it merely masks offending odors by “adding” a topically applied chemical to try to temporarily fool the olfactory gland (smell receptor) with an odor we may find more pleasant. The “new” temporary masking chemical can never overpower the offending odor, but itself will eventually be over-powered by the odor producing source.

For an illustration. Imagine for a brief moment, as disgusting as it may sound, a 1/2 cup containing fresh cat urine. The odor produced from the cat urine cannot be successfully removed by adding or even pouring any topical “deodorizer” atop of the urine. All you’d be left with is a strong potpourri smelling urine. The only sure solution is to COMPLETELY remove ALL of the urine first. Deodorizers are unnecessary if the odor causing source is removed. It is not possible to have an odor if there is not a source for the odor. How to remove an odor is dependent upon the type and location of the odor’s source. “What” is being cleaned is not as important as “how” it is cleaned when removing odor sources. Most carpet cleaning companies will offer deodorizers or sanitizers as an up charge. Most carpet cleaners typically do a poor job of removing the source of odors, and then ask you to pay even more money to apply a temporary odor masking chemical, leaving your home with the original source of the odor still present plus a newly applied chemical into your home’s environment. Oh joy! Just as there is no such thing as a spot remover, (remember spot removers are “adders” by definition, therefore, a spot remover is not a remover, but an “adder”), there is no such thing as deodorizing that does not first include the removal of the entire source of the odor.

How do I get rid of bad odors from carpeting?

Answer to the second question, to remove cat urine from carpeting; first locate all of the cat urine stains, remove all furniture from the room, disengage the carpeting and pull it back from the wall, the stains will be evident on the carpet’s backing, which will line-up with the padding (cushion), remove any affected padding, clean the sub-floor with a 10% bleach solution (wear a respirator and PPE), let the floor dry completely, then seal with paint such as oil-based Kilz, install new padding replacing the affected areas, clean the carpet’s backing with the correct chemistry and plenty of rinse and extraction, re-install the carpeting, then clean the face fibers of the carpeting with the correct chemistry to address the ammoniated salts, metabolized proteins, calcium oxalates, and urates. Believe it or not, this was a brief version of all the steps required. Simple right? Or you can spray a masking chemical to temporarily cover up the offending odors.

This is important. Once the source of the odor has been thoroughly diluted, rinsed, and extracted from the carpeting, it is a good idea to introduce ozone into the environment to “scrub” and “oxidize” the remaining odor causing molecules which have penetrated nearby and exposed porous surfaces and materials, such as walls, clothing, textiles, and upholstery. Note: Always consult a professional with the correct procedure for introducing Ozone into an environment.

There’s a new super bug in town, but it’s not a super hero.  The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention is alerting clinicians of an emerging untreatable multidrug-resistant organism in the United States. The CDC said the increase in CRE means health care providers need to “act aggressively to prevent the emergence and spread of these unusual CRE organisms.”  Upon reading this, I immediately requested that my daughter Alexandra who just happens to be a Molecular and Cellular Biologist to dissect this and explain the ramifications and solutions using terminology we can understand.  Below is Alexandra’s explanation:

“There are a lot of strains of Enterobacteriaceae, the ones they’re talking about have a plasmid containing NDM-1 on it.  NDM-1 was discovered back in 09 in a Klebsiella species.  The big thing about NDM-1 (which is short hand for New Delhi metallo-beta-lactamase) is that it can disrupt the beta lactam ring in both old and new antibiotics meaning that its very difficult to deal with an infection because we don’t really have anything to fight it with.  The gene is on an extrachromosomal piece of DNA so it can be transmitted to other species which is most likely why were finding it in Enterobacter species when we originally found it in Klebsiella.  We already have a good deal of Enterobacter species in our intestines that help out with digestion so it wouldn’t be hard for someone to come in contact with a source of NDM-1 carrying Enterobacters that would have an easier time surviving in human intestines than a lot of other species because of an existing Enterobacter population.  However, that’s not the most worrisome part, there is a chance that Enterobacter can come in contact with bacteria already present in the human microflora and spread the NDM-1 gene through conjugation to a species like E. Coli which will readily accept DNA through conjugation.  So in the end using any type of antibiotic will actually favor the survival of a species containing NDM-1 and can even clear up space by killing off other bacterial strains that aren’t resistant to allow these carriers to spread even faster. Really the only way to fight something like this is prevention because Dr.’s don’t have anything to use against them.”

“Our strongest antibiotics don’t work and patients are left with potentially untreatable infections.”   Dr. Tom Frieden, director of the CDC

Here is an excerpt from the latest info I could find which confirms what Alexandra has explained.  The bacteria belong to the Enterobacteriaceae family, which includes more than 70 species that normally live in the water, soil and human digestive system, such as the well-known E. coli. Over the years, some Enterobacteriaceae have become resistant to all or almost all antibiotics, including last-resort drugs known as carbapenems. Over the past decade, the percentage of Enterobacteriaceae that are resistant to these last-ditch antibiotics rose by 400 percent. One type of CRE, a form of Klebsiella pneumoniae, has increased sevenfold in the last decade.  When the antibiotics wipe out susceptible bacteria, the coast is clear for CRE to proliferate.
Essentially our only control mechanism and defense is prevention.  Wash your hands thoroughly, avoid touching your mouth or eyes with unwashed hands, especially after touching the usual germ carrying vehicles:  door knobs, light switches, cell phones, countertops, etc…HMMM? Sounds like cleaning for health and hygiene is the answer.

Thanks to the following for their contribution:

Alexandra Heuvelman ~Molecular Cellular Biologist, B.S. Univ. of Il.Champ / Urb

Read more: http://www.foxnews.com/health/2013/03/05/antibiotic-resistant-nightmare-bacteria-on-rise-in-us/?intcmp=HPBucket#ixzz2Mhi0qmbP

Read more: http://www.foxnews.com/health/2013/02/27/reports-rare-superbugs-increasing-in-us/#ixzz2McYlDuTN

A recent study has found that the chemical which your dry cleaner uses to clean your clothing and fine fabrics persists and levels elevate with repeated cleanings.  Perc (perchloroethylene), which of course has been linked to cancer and neurological damage, is the chemical which you smell on your clothing after dry cleaning.   We ONLY recommend and clean with enymes and hot water.  We do NOT add soaps or dry cleaning chemicals.  Read the entire story here: http://www.dailyherald.com/article/20110903/news/709039737/

Ragweed is one of the main causes of fall hay fever. Ragweed pollen is released from August to October, and is so small it can not be seen by the naked eye. This makes it even harder to avoid. Some ways to minimize exposure to ragweed is by staying indoors and shutting windows. However, this could exacerbate indoor allergies. Enviroclean, as a health and hygienic carpet cleaner is worried about the health of you and your family. Cleaning your carpet, and keeping your indoor environment as healthy as possible can minimize your exposure to allergens. For more information on Ragweed, ways to reduce exposure, and allergy symptoms, please view  the following links:

http://www.ragweed-allergy.com/    or  visit    http://health.usnews.com/health-news/family-health/allergy-and-asthma/articles/2009/08/13/ready-for-ragweed-allergy-season-these-8-tips-can-help-fight-pollen-allergy

http://health.msn.com/health-topics/asthma/articlepage.aspx?cp-documentid=100267371&page=2

Click on this link to read an article that I found today which unfortunately provides very poor advice with regards to cleaning your home.  Although the authors are correct that our indoor environments are more contaminated than outside, unfortunately, their cleaning advice is terrible.  It’s not what you do…it’s how you do it that matters.  The authors suggest cleaning and vacuuming to remove indoor air pollutants.  Over 90% of all cleaning activities actually exacerbate an unsanitary condition, as opposed to improving it…UNLESS the proper procedures are performed.  Soon we will post a video with an example explaining the protocols to clean practically anything for proper hygienic results.

Have you ever wondered how your rug was made? Some rugs have such  a remarkable history with 1000’s of hours invested into their very creation, causing a unique work of art that is unable to be replicated.  There are different methods by which an oriental rug can be made, such as hand-knotted, hand-tufted, flat weave, machine made and even hand-hooked. The way your rug was made can have an effect of the value of your rug, as well as it’s everyday wear and tear, how well it holds up, it’s ability to stain and so forth. For more information please click on the following link:

http://www.rugscout.com/info/ask-an-expert-weave.html

Contrary to traditionally held beliefs,the FACTS have proven out that  PROPERLY maintained carpeting provides a much healthier indoor environment than smooth floors such as wooden or tile. See http://www.carpet-health.com/pdf/CarpetVsHardSurface.pdf . The unhealthy contaminates within our indoor environments are composed of: bacteria, viruses, dust mites, dust mite excrement, mold, pollen, and a host of other microscopic particulates. Airborne contaminates are more prevalent and intensified within facilities and homes containing smooth floors and substantially reduced where carpeted flooring is installed.  Numerous studies have clearly confirmed that smooth surfaced flooring does not trap the germs, so they stay airborne andwhere they infect the inhabitants.  Carpeting on the other hand has been proven to “CLEAN” the air by acting similarly to that of an air filter which captures, traps, and holds the germs which leaves the airwe breathe much cleaner.  There is so much more evidence. Discover how Enviroclean can improve the health of your indoor environmentWe Guarantee the Most thorough and best carpet cleaning Ever of it’s FREE!

With the allergy season upon us, it looks like it’s going to be another rough year for allergy sufferers. Many tend to begin their day with the recommended dosage of over-the-counter medicine to battle the sniffling, sneezing, wheezing, and itchy, bloodshot eyes. However, there are proven alternative treatments and home remedies to help allergy symptoms. Click on the linked article to learn more about these proven lifestyle changes.

http://www.dailyherald.com/article/20110417/entlife/704179977//

Hi Everyone,

Are you sure you have a Oriental Rug ? Many of our clients have asked us how we can help them tell the difference between a hand made oriental rug and a machine made.  I found this site that explains how you can tell what your rug is.

http://www.rugrag.com/post/How-Can-I-Tell-if-my-Rug-is-an-Oriental-Rug-or-Other-Hand-MadeTuftedMachine-Made.aspx

Enjoy!